Dunes are not exclusive to the Oregon Coast. The Dunes on the eastern shoreline of Lake Michigan are the largest freshwater Dune system in the world. Dunes exist in many places all around Lake Michigan and in some places the Dunes rise several hundred feet above the surface of the Lake. This shoreline is often referred to as the “Third Coast” of the United States.

At Holland, MI, Mt. Pisgah rises 157 feet above Lake Michigan and is accessible via a boardwalk and stair system. At the top are majestic views of Lake Macatawa, an inland lake, and Lake Michigan. Michigan is nick named the” Great Lake State” because of its 11,000 inland lakes. Lake Michigan is known to the locals as “The Big Lake.”

When driving the eastern coastline it can be challenging to find quick, easy and free access to the beach and Dunes. One great place is New Buffalo where these photos were taken. Whittaker Street leading to the city public beach is lined with shops that are also fun to visit. Highly recommended is The Villager for gifts or just something nice to take home. For souvenirs and especially post cards, visit the New Buffalo Pharmacy. Just a block from The Villager is a restaurant that boasts “New York Style Hot Dogs!”

At the end of Whittaker Street is the beach access. Jake’s At The Beach with its Famous Strawberry Shakes sits here next to the Dunes.

Across the way is a hangout for the gulls.

At the base of the stairs to this Dune was a crew cleaning sand off of the concrete walkway to the stairs. My Wyoming T-shirts always cause comment and one worker started to converse when he was distracted by a couple coming down the stairway asking if he was playing in the sand. Yes, he said, it’s never-ending. I climbed the stairs to the top of this Dune and the views were great. Again my Wyoming T-shirt was noticed by the couple up top and we struck up a conversation. From central Indiana, the gent visited here in New Buffalo growing up and did a lot of fishing on The Big Lake with his uncles. They were just here for the day and on their way to Elkhart, IN to visit his mom for Mother’s Day.

Happy Mother’s Day to all the great moms out there!

Time for Oregon Coast lighthouse number two. The Yaquina Bay Lighthouse is probably the oldest structure in Newport, OR. It is also the only remaining wooden lighthouse on the Oregon Coast. Built in 1871, the bay lighthouse could not be seen from the north so a new, more visible lighthouse was built, the Yaquina Head Lighthouse. Due for demolition twice over the years, the Yaquina Bay Lighthouse was declared an historic site in the 70’s and was restored under the Historic Preservation Act in 1974.

One of the most interesting aspects of this lighthouse is that it is haunted. Well, most lighthouses are haunted but this one has a unique haunting story. Here is a link to the most common one:  http://ouroregoncoast.com/newport-area-guide/1461-yaquina-bay-lighthouse-an-oregon-coast-ghost-story.html Muriel’s friends also reported seeing a man at the lighthouse before they left. When you know the story and visit the lighthouse, it becomes quite real.

The kitchens in the lighthouses display so much of life at the time. The Yaquina Bay Lighthouse is the only one that houses both the family home and the light within the same structure. The kitchen shows the work that the woman of the house did daily with its wood stove and iron pots and all the implements of the day.

If you have ever cooked on a wood stove you know how tricky it can be. I finally learned how to make great pancakes on a wood stove that I was initially unable to make on a modern, electric one. Not sure why that was but I enjoyed the wood stove in spite of the work involved. These women managed them daily, three times a day, every day—not just on a camping weekend.

The house is 3 stories with the bedrooms on the second floor and this winding stairway is at the back of the second floor leading to the watch and lantern rooms.

Well worth the climb, at the top is the keeper’s watch room. He had to keep the light burning all night long and also keep a log pertaining to his duties with the light and anything else that might happen.

The Yaquina Bay Lighthouse is located in the Yaquina Bay State Recreation Site at Newport, OR, just west of the north side of the Yaquina Bay Bridge. It is easily accessible when open which is most of the time except holidays. Check online for dates and times. Manned by volunteers, there is no charge to tour the house and view the video in the basement. Don’t miss the framed braided hair artwork. This is a working lighthouse that was officially relit December 7, 1996. The lantern room is not open to the public but there is a replica of the light on the first floor. I visit here every time I am in Newport, Oregon.

Time to visit the Oregon Coast Dunes.  The famous Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area stretches from the north end at Florence to North Bend going south. They are part of the Siuslaw National Forest with various access points along the 43 mile stretch of sands. A variety of vegetation grows in the sand. Here are the Dunes at North Bend just before crossing the bridge.

The Dunes are a popular recreation area for ATVs that run continuously weekends and week days during the better weather. Some weekends they create sand clouds and a lot of noise that can be heard from quite far away. The ATVers enjoy it and often whole families venture out in full protective gear. Similar to driving on the highways, this activity is not without some dangers. Good sense, responsible driving and some pre-Duneing knowledge can prevent accidents.

Rental ATVs are available near the ATV accessible areas at Florence, Honeyman State Park, Winchester Bay and North Bend. Rentals usually include helmets and other needed equipment.

There are a variety of recreational options available. Ten miles south of Florence is the Oregon Dunes Overlook. Watching the Dunes and Ocean in a quiet atmosphere is popular here, ATVs not allowed. There is a marked hiking trail that takes you to the ocean and back that is fun. Picnic areas tucked in the north path to the hiking trail are great places to eat or just watch. There is one fun activity permitted here that my family loves to indulge in as evidenced by these photos.

They did have fun!

Tahkenitch Dunes Trail is 12.5 miles south of Florence. Tahkenitch is a Native American word meaning having arms running out like a crab. The family had quite the adventure here a few years ago. This is a 6.9 miles loop trail that crosses water and goes to the ocean and back. Three of us headed out on this trail not knowing much about it. We hit a brick wall of water that would have been impossible to cross to reach a high Dune that would have needed to be climbed. So we turned around but the trail was unknown and we took a different turn making finding our way difficult. Eventually we came to a trail map that was not in great condition. The youngest member of the group might have been the smartest because he figured out what the map was saying and sent us in the right direction. At that point this 9 year old was also able to interpret exactly where the trail was and where it went which wasn’t where we were trying to go. We’ll keep him!

Along with the Dunes Overlook and Tahkenitch hiking trails, there are a variety of trails to hike off of Highway 101. Hiking in sand is an adventure. Great fun exercise, it is also a bit strenuous hiking and climbing the Dunes. Personally I think snowshoes would make it easier. If you go hiking here be prepared for a bit harder walking than a normal dirt path would provide. Wear good, sturdy shoes and pick short trails to start with. The campgrounds north of Florence have a variety of short trails as well as the longer ones that go to the beach. I like to hike here on the short trails as you can hike one or many as time and energy permit.

A truly favorite place among the Dunes is just south of Florence a few miles. Directly across from the entrance to the Siltcoos Lake Trailhead take the road going west toward the ocean. At the end are a big Dune and a lot of ATVs getting ready to head up over the steep Dune to the ocean beach on the other side. But they must turn north when they crest over the top and head down to the beach. A left turn will take you to the protected nesting grounds of the endangered Snowy Plover. Be sure to read the information on the sign about these adorable little birds before hiking over the Dune. The nesting area is roped off but you can walk past and try to catch a glimpse of the nesting birds. You probably won’t but hope springs eternal. No ATVs allowed here!

Ah, but turn north and follow the ATVs and after a short walk flocks of Snowy Plover can be seen feeding in the shallow surf. They will move together as you approach and may take flight briefly not far off the sand. It is a thrilling sight to see.

As Oregon is the end of the Oregon Trail, Wyoming is somewhere in the middle. Today’s picture/s of the day provides some of the historic landmarks along that trail. Remember the Conestoga Wagons mentioned in Picture of the Day 1? This is a drawing of one posted at Independence Rock:

This stretch of the Oregon Trail spans 154 miles between Casper and Lander of the 400 miles within Wyoming. We will actually be traveling it backwards from Lander to Casper starting with scenery along the trail.

So you can see what the Pioneers saw!

Aside from modern roads, the scenery hasn’t changed much since the wagons rolled across this prairie desert.

You will pass through Jeffery City, named for a wealthy Rawlins doctor who financed the mining company. Jeffery City has a very rich history. In early years it was a “mom and pop” town but in 1957 the Western Nuclear Corporation opened the uranium mine. The town boomed with the mining but in 1983 the mine was closed due to the collapse of the uranium market. A former resident at Umpqua River Haven, Lloyd Fleming, worked here in the mines when he was a young man. It’s a small world!

Today Jeffery City is an historic ghost town with a few residents not unlike Scottsburg, Oregon.

A major landmark on the Oregon Trail here is Split Rock.  Remember you are viewing what the Pioneers saw as it passed behind them while they headed west.

Split Rock was a destination for the travelers that can be seen for many miles in both directions. This was one place they stopped to rest along the trail. They knew they were headed in the right direction when arriving here on the way to South Pass 75 miles to the west.

At the viewing turnout you are next to the split where our journeyers stopped.

Just West of the rock a ways is the Split Rock Ranch. The ranch is 200,000 acres and sold awhile back for $8.9 million. It is in the distance in this picture

It is almost impossible to capture the vastness of the Wyoming “wide open spaces,” but this gives you an idea of what was traversed. There are ranches here and most of them hold large acreages. This arid prairie desert consists of a lot of sagebrush and tufts of bunch grass. It takes a lot of acres just to run one head of cattle and much more for an income-producing herd. It is green this spring but the grass is short amid the infinite growth of prairie sage.

Muddy Gap is the next place of note. The Muddy Creek flows through this natural gap on the Oregon Trail. Today the road splits Northeast to Casper or due South to Rawlins. Just head toward the mountains.

And you will come to the gap….take a left here to Casper.

The next stop on the Oregon Trail is Martin’s Cove. The Oregon Trail is also the Mormon Trail as the Mormon’s traversed the same route during the same period in history on their trek to Salt Lake City. Native American Shoshone Chief Washakie assisted both the Pioneers and the Mormons along the trail here where he became close to the Mormons and eventually converted. The Mormons suffered tragic circumstances and many deaths before they were brought to Martin’s Cove by rescuers where they suffered through cold and blizzard for five days until the weather warmed and they were able to continue on to Salt Lake. You can visit and experience the Hand-Cart trail.

Before reaching Martin’s Cove, immigrants came in view of Devil’s Gate. There are several explanations of the naming of this site and none of them are happy. The wagons were forced to travel around the rock formation and wagon riders carved their names here.

Now on the way to Casper comes one of the most famous landmarks on the Oregon Trail, Independence Rock. The wagons worked to reach the rock by July 4 in order to be assured of making it through the mountains before winter set in. The name probably came out of the history surrounding July 4.

From the turnout viewing deck….

Many names are carved on the rock and you can get closer to read them. There was a party of highway travelers climbing on the rock. Be respectful of our national historic treasure and do no damage, take nothing away but your trash and enjoy what we as a nation have preserved of this unique, American history.

We continue on in the expanse of Wyoming toward Casper….

Stopping at Lake Alcova. Wyoming doesn’t have a lot of lakes but the ones there are have become popular for fishing, boating and other water related activities. Lake Alcova was created when the dam was built in 1937 to provide water for local agriculture. Named after the existing town of Alcova, there is a marina with boat docks not unlike Winchester Bay, Oregon.

And now traveling on into Casper….the largest city in Wyoming!

Further South in Wyoming is a favorite landmark on the Oregon Trail. It can be seen from over 100 miles away in Nebraska as you travel this historic trail, the 10,276 ft Laramie Peak.

I awoke this morning to the music of rain on the roof, a common wake-up tune in Oregon. Eventually realizing I was not in Oregon I breathed gratitude for the welcome rain in arid Wyoming.

There is much activity in Winchester Bay with a wide variety of things to do and see. The bay is home to the US Coast Guard that has a base facility here and housing up by the lighthouse. Search and Rescue is much of what they do.

There is no mistaking these…..

 Windy Bay has a good sized and very active commercial fishing fleet.  Our friend, Mark, helped repair the Ossian you see on the left which was originally from Russia. The fresh caught tuna can’t be beat and you’ll find it for sale at Sportsman’s Cannery and Smokehouse. Ask for Michael and tell her the folks at Umpqua River Haven sent you!

Hiking in the bay is more fun exercise than the gym when you can hike among the pleasure craft and sailboats that are moored in the harbor.

Watching the ducks is a plus along with the varied personalities of the resident seagulls. Do you know why the pier posts are pointed and painted white???

Crabbing for Oregon’s famous Dungeness red crab is popular in the bay. There is a long public pier popular for bait jiggin’, fishing and crabbing.

We like the public docks for all of that and have spent fun family times mostly crabbing there.

Pullin’ in the catch.

Inspecting what’s there.

Gloved hands don’t get pinched!

Making certain it is the right size and gender and not a throwback!  When you turn them upside down they go to sleep so there’s no danger of being pinched!

One of the nice things about these docks is that they are often deserted except for you when you are there. And it is easier to see the resident visitor who cruises the waters trying to steal your bait.

Oky….it’s a sea lion!

There is a dry dock and boat repair facility in the bay also, Reedsport Machine and Fabrication. A second facility is located in Reedsport. Be sure and tell them you learned about them from URH!

It is not called Salmon Harbor for nothing! Salmon are plentiful in the bay during salmon fishing season from early May through early September. Salmon can be seen under the surface, on fishing lines, flipping out of the water and pretty much everywhere in the bay at the right times of year. It’s great sport, great eating and fun to just watch! Check locally for licensing, regulations and restrictions. More about salmon fishing in future posts.

Don’t forget all the great places to eat in the bay and the gift and antique shops we’ve talked about before! Be sure and tell them we sent you!

We’re not certain where this was taken other that it was in the bay.

Such a variety of visitors to Windy Bay.  At the end of the day when the sun sets out over the ocean the view is peaceful, calm and relaxing and spectacular. There will be more sunsets in future posts.

One of the joys of having lived a bit like a roving gypsy for the past 25 years is that many places became “home.” One of those places is Wyoming. Oregon is distinctly beautiful and so is Wyoming in so many different ways. A favorite drive starts just out of Soda Springs, ID, traveling into the Caribou National Forest. This is what you see just before you get there.

And this follows the entrance into the Caribou National Forest.

It was a cloudy day but the beauty still surrounds you. Spring hasn’t quite arrived and the air is nippy though not real cold. Mother Nature has lifted the mantle of snow and only strips of it lay in the shade amid the pines. The grass is green indicating a good year of snow and moisture with the promise of rain in the air. The groves of Aspen have yet to begin leafing out but you can hear the birds singing as they have returned.

A pair of Canada geese traveled together down the winding road in front of the vehicle for awhile as if in escort before veering off. The roadside snow markers are taller than a pickup letting you know the area is often filled with snow in winter.

The locals on both sides of the border travel this route but not many at a time and one is usually alone on the road—no vehicles, no people–surrounded by the glory of the wilderness. It is not a long ride and over too soon coming out with a view of the Wyoming Rockies.

The road descends down into Freedom, ID, er WY, er ID…..before you leave Freedom you are in Wyoming and heading toward Alpine.

Remember you have descended into Alpine which is 5,633 ft above the Oregon Coast and still surrounded by very high mountains.

The spectacular scenery continues in the descent out of Alpine.

 The trail parallels the Snake River.

 And on into Hoback….

 Heading South toward Pinedale it seems the mountains will go on forever…

 And more….

They don’t, of course. Wyoming is a vast array of mountains, desert, high plains and oceans of prairie. But it is easy to see why the picture of the day turned out to be many!

Winchester Bay is famous for the oysters that are grown, harvested, processed and shipped from Umpqua Aquaculture, the Umpqua Triangle Oysters.

Next to the South Jetty entrance to Winchester Bay is a triangle where Umpqua Aquaculture grows their oysters.  This is the view from the lighthouse pavilion.

And here’s a close up:

The oyster farm oysters are grown on suspended long lines from 2 week old seed larvae acquired from a hatchery up the coast. They never touch the ocean floor. The oysters are submerged 24 hours per day in a mix of cold ocean tides and clean river water. This causes them to be free of the harsh flavor associated with bottom sediment. The clean, sweet, pearlescent meats are setting the standard by which all Pacific oysters are judged.

These cleanest and sweetest Pacific Northwest oysters are harvested year around.

When coming to Windy Bay, look for the sign that says “Shucking Oysters Today” and you can visit the retail store on Ork Rock Road and watch the shuckers and inspectors at work through the large viewing window.  It is fascinating to watch. Visit outside the back of the store next to the water and you will find:

If you ask, you will be permitted to pick out any and all oyster shells you want.  They make great soap dishes, jewelry holders and more!

In the store you will find a great oyster stew recipe along with raw oysters (shooters) and the condiments to go with.

Remember Umpqua River Haven is only 30 minutes or less from Windy Bay.  After visiting the hanging oysters you can go home with a supply of the best tasting oysters and a big “Awww Shucks” knowing exactly what that means.

Sometimes we forget that the beautiful Oregon Coast is at the end of the Oregon Trail.  Thoughts of the Oregon Trail conjure up visions of Conestoga Wagons, hearty pioneers braving the unknown dangers of traversing the vast American West carving their names and initials in now preserved rocks, livestock traveling along, hostile attacks, heat, cold, disease, death and ultimate triumph when reaching Oregon.

Oregon, the land of promise and gold. The gold wasn’t prevalent but the promise was real and many settlers thrived taking advantage of the promised free farm land, timber and ranching.  

They settled well in a rich land. And as the American cowboy evolved working on ranches, he also made his appearance in Oregon. Oregon is very much a part of the Western cowboy tradition and the picture of the day reminds us of him.  

As I entered the Oregon desert today on my current travels, I came upon this very old appearing corral. Its purpose is or was probably for loading cattle for shipment to slaughter, but the more romantic picture it created was of cowboys sitting on the rails of the corral watching each other wrangling the cows or practicing their roping skills roping the necks and hooves of the bovine within.

And this couldn’t be more out in the middle of nowhere with desert prairie sage as far as the eye can see and the mountains in the background. Makes it difficult to identify what year/era it is!

We’re going to take a short break from Windy Bay to visit the upcoming 108^th Rhododendron Festival in Florence on the coast. A short 45 minute drive from Umpqua River Haven, Florence is home to this festival that starts this year on May 15^th.

The above photo was taken in our park, Umpqua River Haven. There are many varieties of “Rhodies” and Oregon has them all. Wild ones are usually pink and do grow wild along the coast road near Florence. But you will find them planted everywhere.

When we first came to Oregon and visited the coast, we didn’t know what those beautiful flowers were. But we soon discovered they were wild “Rhodies” on the coast road just south of Windy Bay.

At the Florence Events Center (more about Florence in another blog) gardeners display the Rhododendrons they have grown in competition. The usual award categories are in evidence and it is major eye candy to visit during the festival competition.

 Florence is a busy place during Rhody Days and Old Town on the Siuslaw River is host to a variety of visitors. Not to be missed are the Rhody Run Bikers. Bikers from all over the country arrive and park their Harley’s on the streets of Old Town. It’s quite a sight!

There are a variety of events and activities including the parade, street vendor fair, 5K run, carnival and more. You can meet Queen Rhododendra and King of the Coast. Our personal favorite event is the Classic Car Show. Yummy cars from all over are parked in the big parking lot on Highway 101 in the center of town. Our friend, Myron Aho, started the Rhody Days Car Show and it has grown big over the years. Bring your Classic Car and join in the fun!

Come stay with us at Umpqua River Haven away from the crowds (hard to get a room on the coast at this time anyway) and enjoy Rhody Days in Florence the weekend of May 15 – 17!

Back in Winchester Bay up behind the Umpqua River Lighthouse is the Umpqua Lighthouse State Park. The jewel of this park is the freshwater Lake Marie.

There is a nice, easy hiking trail all the way around the lake with a few ups and downs but nothing unmanageable and great views of the lake all the way.

There is a nice, grassy picnic area with a sandy beach for swimming at the west end of the lake.

There is a side trail that winds its way to the Dunes for Dune and ocean views but especially to watch the ATVs cruising on the Dunes.

Best of all is the fishing. This is where I met the gent that grew up near Umpqua River Haven at Scottsburg in the timber camp where his father was a cook.

Possible catches are both large and small mouth Bass, Crappie, Walleye, Catfish, Spotted Bass, White Bass and Trout. Fishing is done from both small non-motorized boats and the shore. When hiking here you will usually find people fishing dotted around the lake. Lake Marie is a very popular place to fish.

It is an easy drive from Umpqua River Haven to Lake Marie so you can grab the fishing poles and take the family for a day filled with activities everyone will enjoy!