Scottsburg, Oregon II

We are going to pause in our adventures for a commercial break from Umpqua River Haven located at Scottsburg, Oregon http://www.umpquahaven.com This is a video about Scottsburg (a real ghost town) and the reasons we love living here!  Our Mayor, Henry Fryer, echos our own thoughts. If you are looking for a beautiful, quiet and friendly place to live, visit our website above and get in touch with us. Following the video, the original Scottsburg post on this blog is posted again. Lots of history there, too. Enjoy your virtual visit to Scottsburg, Oregon.

Scottsburg

Picture18 miles inland from the Oregon Coast is the official Ghost Town of Scottsburg, Oregon, with its long and rich history.  Originally the home of the Penutian-speaking Lower Umpqua native people in the present-day Scottsburg/Wells Creek area, it was named for pioneer and politician Levi Scott who’s birthday is still celebrated every year at the Community Center. Levi, from Illinois, homesteaded here and founded the town in 1850.

And then more “Scottsburgs” were established creating an Upper Scottsburg, Middle Scottsburg and Lower Scottsburg.  Whew! Upper Scottsburg became a shipping and distribution port for the mining regions and communities of southern Oregon and northern California.  Hundreds of pack animals loaded here at one time.

And it was news!  The Umpqua Weekly Gazette was the first southern Oregon newpaper to be published out of Scottsburg.

Scottsburg declined as ports opened up closer to the market points in both Oregon and California.  In 1861 a great flood wiped out Lower Scottsburg which caused further decline. A bit of a revial came during the 1940’s and 50’s as Scottsburg had a boom when the timber industry ramped up production in this area.

On the south side of the river and up river a bit from the town (on Lutsinger Creek Rd) was a settlement known still as “Family Camp.”  Housing there held 350 people who worked in the timber or as staff in the timber camp on the north side of the river at Scottsburg.

I was hiking Lake Marie on the coast one day when I stopped to ask a fisherman if he was catching anything.  In the course of our chat, he revealed that he had grown up during this period of time as his dad was the camp cook.  He was well acquainted with one of our long time residents at Umpqua River Haven.   He described growing up in the timber camp and being around kind of rough men who worked the timber.  A bit frightening for a small boy.

Eventually timber in an area “plays out”.  The timber is re-planted to grow again over the course of 15 or more years.  But, the people move on which is what happened here.  All of the houses at “Family Camp” were moved out and only a large, flat, treeless area remains.  But everyone around knows about “Family Camp.” Scottsburg declined rapidly after that.  

A few old timers remained in the area and “Bob’s Market” opened in 1950.  Owned by Bob House the market eventually was taken over by his two sons, Tom and Bob and their wives.

In recent times, young Bob who lived across the highway from Umpqua River Haven, owned a Llama named Larry.  Larry liked to wander and came meandering up our road one day at a fast walk with Bob chasing after him.  The residents went out to help Bob round up Larry and get him back home inside the fence again.  No easy task.  Much as everyone wanted Larry back home, it was also some interesting entertainment during a quiet afternoon.

Llamas are raised in the Umpqua River Valley but also you will find them pastured with flocks of sheep as they are superior guard “dogs” against predators.  Larry was just a member of the House Family.   

The market is actually at Wells Creek which is 2 miles from Scottsburg and was recently sold by the brothers.  But it is still there providing groceries to the locals and tourists.  The market is often a destination for people who love Taylor Sausage which has been a staple item here for many years.

Scottsburg is on the Registry of Historic Ghost Towns but is very much alive. Walking distance east of the market is the Wells Creek Inn Restaurant and Lounge.

Two doors west of us at Umpqua River Haven is the volunteer fire department with a staff of well trained fire-fighting and EMT personnel.  When the whistle blows, they come quickly and are very professional in fire-fighting and emergency services.  The fire chief lives next door to us and we consider him and his family to be good friends.

Present day Scottsburg boasts a Community Church and US Post Office.  Several residents live within the town including the Mayor, Henry Fryer and his wife, Patty, who was a long term US Post Master.  Many of the buildings in Scottsburg are designated as Historic Sites.

The Scottsburg Post Office is much like a coffee shop where people meet, greet and visit as they pick up mail and do PO business.  Patty, and subsequent postal employees, was always very helpful and could relay about any information you might need or want. I walked into the post office one day and asked Patty if she knew of anyone who played a string instrument.  She was immediately able to give me the name of a cello musician who lived across the river on Lutsinger Creek Rd.  I was able to contact the cellist and we played together as a duo, in a trio (The Glissandoes) and in the Southwestern Oregon Community College Orchestra in Coos Bay for many years.

The advantages of moving to a small town!

The population surrounding Scottsburg increase the number of residents by many. Lutsinger Creek Rd runs east from the bridge and contains houses up and down the road.  There is also a Friesian horse farm. Traveling due west of Scottsburg before crossing the bridge is the Scottsburg West Rd with many very nice homes taking in their river views.  

On the north side of the river heading east out of the Wells Creek Area (remember Bob’s Market) are streets leading to river property on the south with a variety of unique housing.  There are also streets on the north leading to more housing and to the Historic Scottsburg Cemetary.  

Boating and fishing, which we will discuss more in a bit, are year around activities on the Umpqua River.  Two miles west of the town of Scottsburg is the Scottsburg Park which contains a boat ramp/dock, big parking lot, restroom facility and picnic areas. Quite a nice park for such a small community.

A bit further west is the Umpqua Wayside State Park which has a nice picnic area.  Oregon has beautiful, well kept state parks.  And the beauty of Oregon never ends.  She is a scenic paradise!

March Adventures Along The Oregon Coast–Bandon-By-The-Sea – Part II

Remember the cute vacation rental duplex?

A friend stays there occasionally on writing sabbaticals. The next two photos encompass her view as she writes (photo credit to Jacquie Beveridge). Yes, that is a seagull flying in the center over the water.

Back to the top of the cliff, I ventured down a road leading to the Devil’s Kitchen. There are a lot of areas with the title “Devil” something due to the churning waters. Here is a beach area with a lot of driftwood that may be different at high tide.

However, the water on and a ways offshore churns a lot. Might even be ‘stirring.’

This is the time of year when the mini-Daisies bloom all over the ground. But here at the Devil’s Kitchen hillside, I came across some pretty small flowers that are different. They have colored dots on the petals. I’ve no idea what they are but they blend well with the mini-Daisies.

Here’s a closeup of them.

Here’s a better photo of that cliffside house with all the buoys on the fence. You can also see how clear and beautiful a day it was!

Heading back, I pulled into this loop drive filled with oceanfront condos. What a view they must have!

Back down the hill and into Old Town Bandon is this mural depicting another era. You can see the Tall Ship. It’s really more art than mural.

Old Town Bandon is filled with great seafood and shops of all kinds—fudge, antique, secondhand and more. In more normal times, it is fun to peruse through the shops and maybe find a treasure or two and people were. But for myself, I avoid shopping anywhere these days and just enjoy the scenery. There were a lot of pigeons and they appeared to be posing here on the railing. Then something disturbed them and they flew off gathering others as they went and became a great flying flock.

There are many resident Seagulls everywhere. Walking, sitting and sometimes begging. They hang around because even though there are signs saying “Don’t Feed The Birds” people still do. Or they drop food and the birds will waddle in for the leavings. This one was sitting on one of the eating tables (probably didn’t pick that table for myself). 

Here’s a waddler just looking for a handout or droppings.

Some of the Pigeons came back to roost, even fighting for a position on the wire.

Yet another waddler. I love watching Seagulls. They each have their own personalities. Sometimes they can be quite aggressive. I was dive-bombed by one on the bridge in Charleston. I was walking across the bridge and it was seated above. Apparently, it didn’t like me being on the bridge as it kept diving at me and I had to duck a couple of times. I hurried across the bridge.

No one can visit here without partaking in some yummy seafood and I went to my favorite place, Fish & Chips Chowder House. They have good outdoor seating and some inside (no eating inside right now). But mostly they have great seafood. I had the fried clam strips basket with French Fries and Cole Slaw. It was enough for about 3 meals so I enjoyed it for a couple of days. I walked back to an area next to the river to sit and enjoy the food and ambiance of the water and Old Town. This fella came along and hung around. He would have gone for a handout but I didn’t. However, I did drop some coleslaw on the table. He was very patient. He just KNEW he was in store for a treat. Sure enough, when I got up, that bird didn’t hesitate to fly up onto the table and munch on the slaw. I should have dropped a fry or two but didn’t think to. They really are fun to watch.

There are some wood, ocean-themed, carvings as you have seen in some of the photos. This is an octopus crawling up something. They are fascinating creatures and very ancient. There is one at the Hatfield Marine Science Center in Newport in a tank. It needs constant tending as it keeps trying to climb out of the tank. If you are there at the right time, you can see it being fed and eating.

The Coho and Chinook Salmon are a very big deal here on the Oregon Coast and in the rivers. There are two salmon seasons – spring and fall. Many places along the coast have some displays/education about the salmon and this is the one at Bandon. I met two very nice and very young men at the display who know nothing about salmon and so the conversation started. I’m not usually into visiting with strangers but I could tell they were just a couple of nice, young fellas. Always nice to meet enterprising young people when so many aren’t that these days.

Here’s a shot of the boardwalk with Pigeons roosting on the information building.

Here’s a shot up the Coquille River. The pointed and white-painted posts are done that way so that the Seagulls won’t park on them (and leave their presents thereon). Rather clever, really. And one, puffy white cloud!

Time to head back to Umpqua River Haven at Scottsburg, OR. On the way out the back road is this mural reminiscent of those in Old Town Newport.

It is impossible for any of my family to pass by Windy Bay (Winchester Bay) without stopping at the Umpqua River Lighthouse for the view of the ocean and of the lighthouse. The sun was just brilliant!

This lighthouse is the favorite of one of our family members. They remarked that it has been cleaned up. Probably has a new coat of paint also. Sure is a beauty!

Watch for more Adventures Along the Oregon Coast to come!

 

March Adventures Along The Oregon Coast–Bandon-By-The-Sea

We’ll get back to more February adventures but first we’re going to Bandon, OR.  We have had a few gorgeous weather days but the last one was 3/3 and I took off for Bandon. Bandon is truly by-the-sea’ as you will discover. The first stop was at the mouth of the Coquille River to picture the historic Coquille River Lighthouse. We have toured it. Small, but tall enough for some great views all around. It is currently closed due to the pandemic but it sits at the edge of a beautiful, long beach to the north of it. That’s seafoam in the foreground. And a few gulls to the right.

Next is the beachfront drive. I went to the lower road first which I’ve never been on. This is where the lighthouse photo was taken at the south jetty. There are quite a few houses on the beach here and I drove through the neighborhood after taking this shot of the ocean and what Bandon is most famous for—the rock formations just offshore. These were created by earthquakes pushing the rock to the surface. This photo displays the beauty of the combination of the very blue, cloudless sky, blue water, white crashing waves and driftwood as well as the start of the rocks. That’s a fog bank out at sea.

Some of the housing is quite interesting looking. This duplex is a vacation rental.

These white geese are apparently residents of this lower neighborhood as I saw a woman come out of the building to your left and toss out some feed. I imagine the Blackbirds partook also. I wondered how the neighbors liked them.

Some of the homes had a lone Captain Sentinel standing guard.

The next adventure was up on the cliff road which is high above the beach and ocean with great views if you are a house on the edge. There are several small motels/hotels up here. Not many years ago, some of them were in bad shape and not in use. No more. They have all been spruced up or re-imagined and are up and running. Bandon is a very popular summer resort area so there are many rentals of various types. There is a huge Best Western on the south end of this road that has grown over the years. But this photo is of one of the spruced-up, small motels within the residential and vacation rental neighborhood.

Here’s another shot of the ocean from up top showing the vast expanse of the beach (and a few rocks). Bandon is notoriously misty due to all the crashing waves on the rocks and shore. But this day was unbelievably clear. It was a pleasant surprise!

This next photo displays some of the many rocks here. 

And another.

The most famous rock here is Face Rock. Inns and streets and more are named after Face Rock. There are many Native American legends about this rock and how it came to be but I picked this one.

A ‘potlatch’ (feast) was planned by the four chiefs of the coast in honor of the great Chief Siskiyou coming to visit, bringing his beautiful daughter, Ewauna, with him. Ewauna had never seen the ocean and was fascinated by it, thinking this was the place where the beautiful white clouds were made that she saw back at her home in the mountains. 

The feast was a great one as the tribes wanted to show how prosperous they were. There was much food and they feasted until they could eat no more and fell asleep where they were. Ewauna had been warned not to wander alone to the ocean but she could not resist and ran and danced and sang under the full Chinook moon coming closer and closer to the ocean until her feet touched the cool water.

She started swimming in the ocean and swam and swam further and further away from the shore until something grabbed her. It was the evil monster, Seatka, and he tried to make Ewauna look into his eyes where all his power was. But, she would not and just stared up at the moon in the sky, her eyes never wavering.

When Chief Siskiyou awoke and found Ewauna missing, he and all the tribes ran to the ocean to discover her laying out in the water looking up at the white clouds. Seatka was sitting behind the large rocks near the shore still trying to get Ewauna to look at him. She wouldn’t. Many, many moons she has been there and now they have all turned to stone. The following two photos are shots of Face Rock and clearly show the face of a woman.

Another variety of housing shows this street-level parking for the vacation rental’s roof you see looking out at the rocks.

The plant in this next photo of yet more rocks, with the yellow flowers, resembles Scotch Broom but in reality, it is Gorse. Like Scotch Broom, Gorse is very invasive and vastly more dangerous. It is covered with thorns and has an oil that easily fuels fire. At one time, Bandon was surrounded by Gorse that fueled a huge fire in the 1930s that killed 14 people and burned most of the buildings in Bandon to the ground.

This next shot of the ocean shows again how vast the Oregon beaches are. They are a great place to walk, explore and discover shells.

Another cliffside house. It would be fun to live here. Some of the housing is lived in year-round but much of it is closed up for the rainy season as the owners spend their winters in sunnier climes.

Watch for more Bandon-By-The-Sea adventures coming soon, along with continued ones from the North Coast of Oregon.